Chef Scott Carlton’s love for simple Italian food is evident at Cornells

July 22, 2024

Updated: July 22, 2024

As a child, Scott Carlton found inspiration in the culinary world through ⁣the television shows of renowned chefs Julia Child and Jacques Pépin on PBS.‍ He admired their ability⁢ to invite viewers into their kitchens and impart their culinary wisdom.

“Their primary goal was to educate viewers about cooking, not to gain fame, which I deeply respect,” said Carlton, who has ‌recently been appointed as⁣ the executive chef at Cornells in Little Italy.

Carlton observes that the current culinary television landscape has shifted, with the Food Network now focusing more on celebrity chefs and competitive cooking shows.

“The reality ‌of the hard work ‌and dedication required to excel in the culinary field is often overlooked. People watch these‌ shows and ⁤think, ‘I’ll attend the CIA ⁢ [Culinary Institute of America in the Hudson Valley], get my own show,⁢ and everything will be perfect.’ They have no idea of the effort it takes to do it right,” Carlton expressed.

Carlton, a native of Long⁣ Island who‌ grew up in ‌Burnt Hills, ‌decided to‌ pursue⁤ a career in‍ the restaurant industry after a stint‌ in banking.

“I was in the mortgage business,⁢ but it wasn’t fulfilling. One evening, while discussing career aspirations ⁤with friends, I expressed my desire to attend the Culinary Institute of America and open my own restaurant. Encouraged by my friends, I ⁤decided to take the plunge,” Carlton shared.

He applied the next day and was accepted.

“I was completely out of my depth ⁣when⁢ I started school, having no prior experience in a professional kitchen. I dedicated myself to learning, ‌spending every day after class ⁣in ⁢the ⁣library,” Carlton recalls.

After graduating in 1997 with a degree in culinary arts, he honed his skills at various ‍restaurants in Cape Cod and Boston before returning to the Capital Region.

Carlton has an impressive resume, having worked at‍ numerous establishments including Tala Bistro in Latham, the former Sperry’s Restaurant in ⁣Saratoga Springs, Osteria Danny, and most recently Duke’s Chophouse at Rivers Casino and Resort in Schenectady. He also had a stint with Mazzone Hospitality.

“I was fortunate ⁢to work with some truly exceptional chefs after graduation. I learned a lot by observing them,” Carlton said.

Danny Petrosino of ⁤Osteria Danny was one such influential figure.

“I learned more from him⁤ than I did in school,” Carlton admitted.

In 2014, Carlton achieved‌ his dream of opening his own restaurant, E.K. Cibo, located on Chrisler Avenue in Schenectady, specializing in Italian cuisine.

He ‍also passed ⁢on his love for cooking to his daughter, Kira, who⁤ was 4 years old at the time.

“She would join me in the kitchen, standing on her little stool‍ and helping me roll⁢ meatballs. It was exactly ⁢what I had envisioned,” Carlton reminisced.

However, juggling ‌the business aspects and kitchen management proved to be⁣ overwhelming, and after a little over two years, he closed ⁣E.K. Cibo. He continued to work⁤ in the restaurant industry, though.

Over time, Carlton‍ has developed a particular affinity for Italian ‍cuisine.

“I’ve always‍ been drawn to⁢ it,” Carlton said. “I love the simplicity of Italian food. Chefs tend to cook what they love to eat, right?”

He brought this passion to Cornells, a culinary institution⁤ in Schenectady. The original Cornells opened on Van Vranken Avenue in 1943 and relocated to⁤ North Jay Street in the Little Italy neighborhood in 2003. The Aragosa family sold Cornells in 2011; the new owners rebranded⁣ it as‍ Cornells in Little Italy in 2016.

In April 2020, Cornells‌ closed its doors. However, Maria Perreca Papa, co-owner of the iconic Perreca’s bakery and MORE Perreca’s restaurant, ⁢took over and reopened it in 2022.

Carlton was appointed head chef during the transition but left before the restaurant reopened. He maintained contact with Papa and began consulting for the restaurant earlier this year, collaborating with Papa to⁣ create a special seven-course ⁣vegan menu for an event. He joined the team full time ⁣this spring.

“I’ve been a huge fan of chef Scott Carlton for years and have frequented every place he’s cooked,” Papa said. “Scott was always‍ my top choice to lead the kitchen at Cornells and I⁣ couldn’t be happier⁣ for our restaurant‍ and the special place it holds in the hearts of our patrons.”

Carlton’s plan is not to expand the menu, but to enhance its execution.

“When I opened my ⁣Italian restaurant, people asked, ‘What are you going to do?’ My response was, ‘The same thing everyone else does, just better.’ That’s our goal here at Cornells,” Carlton said. “Anyone can write a menu or a resume, but if you can’t execute it, it’s meaningless.”

He acknowledges that such changes won’t happen instantly.

“It’s going to take time. I want people to understand that,” Carlton said. “Patience is key.”

Carlton also recognizes a shift in dining habits.

“Gone ⁤are the days when people would go out, enjoy a martini at the bar, and then sit down for dinner,” Carlton said.

“I ⁤don’t think as many people are‌ dining out as before. There used to be destination restaurants in the Capital District, where everyone knew the chefs. It’s just not‌ the same anymore,” Carlton observed.

Despite the changes, Carlton still⁣ finds joy in his work.

“I still love it. It’s chaotic most of the time,”⁣ Carlton ⁤said. “When you put your⁣ heart into‍ a dish and someone says ‘That was the best meal ⁢I’ve ever had,’ it makes it all worthwhile.”

–

Emily Stanton

Emily Stanton, a skillful journalist previously based in Boston, is adept at covering a diverse array of stories. Her thorough and engaging reporting style, honed with a Master's in Journalism from Boston University, focuses on community-relevant stories.